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PC: Kalirajan Subramanian Collage Design: Jayishnaa
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As an old saying goes, the best things in life are unplanned. When we visited Keoladeo National Park in 2022(click here for the blog), we didn't realize that it would set us off on a birding trail for years to come. Then came Pulicat Lake(click), Koonthankulam Bird Sanctuary(click), Kali Tiger Reserve(click), Old Magazine House Ganeshgudi(click) - all home to rich and varied bird species. The next stop in this list was the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.
Described by Dr. Salim Ali, India's pioneering ornithologist, as the richest bird habitat on peninsular India, Thattekad stands on the banks of river Periyar.
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| Periyar River PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
The forest here is lowland, usually moist deciduous. It is best visited during the winter months from Nov to Feb when migratory birds can be seen. Nevertheless, we had good sightings by the end of March too. That is because of the ample resident species.
Day1: Reaching, Refreshing and Night birding
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| Mobile click of a blue tinted bridge overlooking the NH544 |
On road, Thattekad is about 10 hrs from Bengaluru. We took the Krishnagiri-Dharmapuri-Salem-Coimbatore-Palakkad-Vadakkencherry-Angamaly-Kalady-Perumbavoor-Kothamangalam route via NH44 and NH544. Below is a video clip from inside the Kuthiran tunnel.
Starting early in the morning around 4am we reached Thattekad around 5pm including a breakfast break little past Salem and an extended lunch break in Coimbatore.
Our accommodation was at the Birdsong homestay. Mr. Vinod +91 8943894087 owns the homestay and is a seasoned birder in Thattekad. He spots birds precisely by the branch where they are perched and takes repeat-visitors on specific bird walks. The room was clean, comfortable on the first floor of his beautiful house overlooking a pond on one side and the hills on the other. Homemade food prepared by his mother was quite delectable. Dawn and dusk were marked by admirable bird activity just around his house itself. Anoop +91 9048170694 was another birding guide who came with us for a day. He was excellent in spotting too.
At 6:30pm we set out on our first night birding walk. Till a point we drove and from there we were on-foot. March was already sultry and humid in Thattekad but the possibility of sightings kept our spirits and stamina high. There was one more visitor along with his guide and we started combing the area together, led by Vinod and the other guide. Note: Ensure to silence your mobile phones but use the torch as advised by your guide. Tread the forest floor as quietly as possible lest the species of your interest get disturbed and alert.
The first one we spotted was...well...a pair of shiny eyes that radiated Vinod's pointing light from a distance. It was well hidden within the shrubs. A nightjar. Though we came hoping for owls, this did raise our excitement. We walked on a mud path right behind the shrubby outgrowth. After a few steps, Vinod stopped still at one place and pointed us towards the small tree opposite him. Perched on one of its outwardly branches, was a Jerdon's nightjar in a totally upright position. We had seen a napping nightjar in Bharatpur totally camouflaged with the branch it was on. It was stunning to see this one, at close quarters, sitting unperturbed by our presence.
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| Jerdon's Nightjar PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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Do you notice the 180-degree turn? PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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Little later, we drove to another spot. This place, Vinod said, was the habitat of the Mottled wood owl. This spot was cooler, with lite breeze, giving us some relief. It must have been around 7:30pm. As soon as we stepped out of vehicle, we could notice a circling silhouette against the dark skies. We waited there patiently without any rapid movements that might alert our target. After around 10-12mins Vinod suddenly pointed to the top of a tree behind us. There was the Mottled wood owl, a medium sized own with classic features, looking straight at us.
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| Hello! Is it me you looking for?! Mottled wood owl PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
It had been watching us so long and decided to reveal itself, probably gauging that we were harmless and were there only for the Darshan. That was an unforgettable moment, how he was shaking his neck and inspecting us from almost 15+ feet above! He got us all glued to him and the glitter of few fireflies made the moment even more special.
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| The wise cool look. Mottled wood owl. PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
By then the permitted night birding hours were drawing to a close. Satisfied, we drove back for a hearty dinner and much needed sleep. My dreams took flight. The unparalleled beauty who'd pulled us here... we had missed him just by a day in Ganeshgudi. Will luck favor us this time?
Day2: Dr. B, Boobook and some more birding
We woke up at 5:30am to bird calls. The fig tree next to our window was abuzz with a Malabar giant squirrel, Grey fronted green pigeons, Southern hill mynahs and a pair of Malabar Grey hornbills.
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| A Malabar grey hornbill and his breakfast.... PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| And.....the breakfast is almost done PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Quickly getting ready, we grabbed our binoculars, camera gear, hats and goggles. A lovely long day lay ahead of us in the woods of the western ghats! By then the greenery and waterbody around the house were busy with barbets, flower peckers, egrets etc. After a refreshing cup of tea, Vinod said that we would hop onto a fellow visitor's vehicle for the drive to the sanctuary. Dr. Balaji, an oral pathologist from a family of Doctors in Pondicherry was a regular at Thattekad. This was his nth time, and he was here on a day's visit to particularly spot a specific bird. His experiences of the bird life here made for an interesting chat during the drive, and we were glad to have an informed companion. Soon, we four became a team.
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| All geared up Pic of: Kalirajan Subramanian PC: Priya Rajan |
Urulanthanni was our locality for extensive birding over the day and the next. After Vinod cleared the required formalities, we parked the car at the prescribed spot and started walking. Oh! the 3 days in Thattekad, we walked like never before, often quite into the vegetation. Despite the heat, the old growth trees under whose shadows we were treading, made it thoroughly enjoyable. If jeep safari gave one kind of an experience in the forests, combing on foot was totally another!
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| Break in between birding. |
Malabar barbet, Malabar wood shrike- both resident birds of Thattekad were the first of our sightings for the day. Drongo cuckoo, Golden fronted leaf bird, Asian fairy bluebird, flame throated bulbul soon followed.
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| Malabar woodshrike - endemic to western ghats PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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The fairy in flight Asian fairy bluebird PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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The previous day, Vinod had asked us for the birds we wished to spot. Well, Baza was already back home. So, the next was our Trogon. Vinod must have taken us few steps forward into the vegetation. A flash of crimson was momentarily visible to our left. Equally excited, Vinod asked us to wait and went in search. He came back signaling us to quickly follow him. Few meters ahead, beyond a curve from behind a tall tree we could catch a glimpse- of the Malabar Trogon! Perched in poise, the vibrant male was showing off his silky back with long and even tail feathers.
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| Malabar Trogon male. A dream come true PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
The male sports a black head, white ring on the chest followed by a crimson belly. The female sports a light orange/ochre belly and a lighter black head and neck. The beak and eye ring radiate blue for both. The trogons inhabit the deep western ghats and are known for perching still and silent. A stunning moment indeed, when something that you have been long waiting for appears right in front of you. Lifer.
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| Such a beauty even from the back! Malabar Trogon male PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Now, we moved on looking for what Dr. Balaji had come in search of. But before that, we had another treat, the next one in our list. We had returned from the interior to one of the forest roads when Vinod again asked us to wait and stepped inside the trees to our left in search of something. Few mins later, he gave us a low call asking us to take his trail. There inside a small natural hide made of fallen branches and leaves, was a still SriLankan Frogmouth! This was a lifer too. It was a female, catching a daytime nap. Frogmouths, like owls and nightjars are nocturnal. Our happiness knew no bounds!
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| Sri Lanka Frogmouth PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
By now it was breakfast time. We drove to a local eatery where we were served with fresh and hot Parottas, Appams, egg curry and sambar. We rounded it off with black tea and headed again to the forests. With renewed vigor we continued. The walk was deeper, revealing the characteristics of old growth forests. On the way there was an old tree that had fallen down, looking a huge pipe. The forest floor wasn't visible. It was cushioned with layers of fallen leaves. After almost 10-15mins Vinod pointed us upwards. There was the Ceylon Bay Owl! Thoroughly camouflaged on a branch almost 10ft above the ground level.
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| Ceylon Bay Owl - The bird that brought Dr. B all the way again from Puducherry and made us first-time lucky PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Briefly alert on one eye Ceylon Bay Owl PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
A keystone species endemic to the forests of Sri Lanka, Kerala and Southwestern India. As the old saying goes - as wise as an owl, this magnificent little bird was as still as stone. He knew we were there but wouldn't give a hoot, in the true sense :-) We were all spellbound, losing track of space and time. After all our hearts were satiated, a collective regaining of consciousness happened, and we retreated. The hooter continued to be still.
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Meditative slumber Ceylon Bay Owl PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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Now we walked along a tarred road adjacent to the woods. Along our stroll we could sight a Racket tailed drongo, Malabar woodpecker and an Orange headed thrush neatly hidden between two small branches of a plant (their size and the ideas to remain unseen!)
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| Orange headed thrush PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Orange headed thrush PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
A short while later, Vinod came to know through his contacts that there was a Brown Boobook in one of the rubber plantations. So, he directed us there. As soon as we reached the place, without much ado, he led us directly to the tree where the sleek Brown hawk-owl was effortlessly perched.
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| Brown boobook - in haute couture custom designed by nature PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
With the view very clear and the bird cooperating, we clicked our way!
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| Brown boobook - the poser PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Those eyes! They fit the whole screen. |
At this point it was almost noon. We were drenched in sweat. Time to take a break. We headed to the stay and rested for a while. An amazing spread of authentic Kerala lunch followed with Aviyal, Pappadam, lip-smacking Sambar (the consistency of the lentils closely resembling the Tirunelveli side recipe, right sourness and multiple vegetables in it apart from drumstick), Payaru and Beetroot thorans. Tummy khush! After a small nap we were out to the hides.
The bird-hides are small green shelters with seating and provision for the lenses to point to the area where the baths and feed are placed for the birds to visit. For the birds, it is as if the cameras and the people behind it are hidden under green cover. So they fly about without inhibitions. Good hide-practice to invite variety of birds, is to provision only the bird baths. No feeds. With feed, only the species that generally flock and are renowned for mobbing visit, leaving nothing for the shy, more reclusive ones. Today's hide was a combination of both bath and feed. Predictably, the more dominant flocks visited. Yet, it was a treat to observe their behavior.
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| Common flameback woodpecker PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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Common flameback woodpecker PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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Rufous treepie PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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| Malabar starlings, that kept on visiting the feed PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| White bellied treepies flaunting their lustrous plumes PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
| White bellied treepies flaunting their lustrous plumes PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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A white bellied treepie and Malabar starlings contesting for the same feed PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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It must have been around 4:30-5pm. There were indications that a rain might be on the way. So, we packed up. On our drive back, the rains arrived, offering us some respite from the heat and humidity. Back in the stay we savored hot tea and snacks. As night birding was called off due to rains, Kali and I decided to visit the Siva Vishnu Temple nearby. After prayers, we spent some soothing time watching the swollen Periyar river from the temple premises.
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| The spacious, beautiful and serene Siva Vishnu Temple at Thattekad |
PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| The spacious, beautiful and serene Siva Vishnu Temple at Thattekad |
PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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A Peacock taking shelter at the temple during the rains.
The panoramic view of the temple and the Periyar river
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Day3: Trail of the Trogon, Sudhamma and the Scops
Today Anoop was our guide. We started our drive at 7:30am after a hearty breakfast of homemade, melt-in-the-mouth Appams and egg curry. Parking at a different spot in Urulanthanni, we took another trail. Anoop took us to the top of a small hillock from where we could sight Scarlet minivets, Malabar ringed parakeets, Flame throated and Yellow browed bulbuls.
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| A Malabar ringed parakeet with its chick in a tree hole PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
At one point he zoomed in on a Common tree snake on the opposite side and led us there. The slender snake was enjoying the mild morning sun soaking in the day's Vit-D. Nice catch from a distance.
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| Common tree snake glittering under the morning sun PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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Partial length shot of the long lithe slitherer PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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We returned back to the same road where we had sighted the Malabar woodpecker and Orange headed thrush the previous day. Anoop asked us to wait, ventured inside to return and ask us to follow. Learning our interest in the Malabar Trogon, he had tracked one bird that frequented a small pool of water nearby. We followed him and waited under the shades of a large mango tree. The bed of the stream was dry. We comfortably sat down. It was all to our advantage - the hide, the angle and the light. If we got to see the bird better today, then it was a bounty! Thirty minutes must have passed. In a trice, a crimson flash jetted on the opposite bank from one tree to another. We got alert, holding our battered breath. He emerged, slowly and steadily. Halting for few minutes between each of his hops, this vibrant bird displayed its impeccable elegance from different angles. Lucky day.
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| The stunning looks of the Malabar Trogon PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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On one of its usual stops Malabar Trogon male PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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During the wait, we also got to see a Chestnut headed bee eater.
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| Chestnut headed bee eater PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
We then strolled along different sections of the jungle where we got to see different woodpeckers and Black naped monarchs.
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| A Black naped monarch in its nest PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Heart spotted woodpecker PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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Heart spotted woodpecker PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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Yellow browed bulbul PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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| Yellow browed bulbul fanning its tail PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
We eventually came to the frogmouth's hide near which we met Mrs. Sudhamma, a seasoned female-birder about whom I had read many articles. She was guiding another family. A brief chitchat followed and to our luck again there was a perch on which the apex predator - Ceylon Bay Owl was stationed.
Second day lucky. In birding and safari, sightings are totally unpredictable and left to the whims of the denizens of the jungle. It is more a matter of lucky coincidence that we and the species are in the same place at the same time.
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| Sri Lanka Frogmouth PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Following this, Anoop led us to the interiors where, to our great surprise, we sighted the Malabar Trogon - Female. This was totally unexpected! We got to sight both the sexes in their natural habitat on the same day! Our maiden trip to Thattekad was becoming more and more memorable. Next in line was a White-bellied blue flycatcher female, tiny and camouflaged in the brown foliage.
In the tropical, old growth forests (both rain and dry/moist deciduous) bird watching is relatively easier than bird photography unlike grasslands or wetlands. The height of the trees and dense cover challenge the focus and clarity of the shots. Despite all of that, the morning walk was so eventful. We decided to return and rest.
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| Malabar Trogon Female - notice the absence of the chest ring, brown neck and ochre belly PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Malabar Trogon Female. We were trogon-lucky @ Thattekad PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| White bellied blue flycatcher female PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Post lunch, Kali went to Anoop's bird hide while I chose to stay back. After a good nap, few phone calls and a rejuvenating shower I sat in the balcony for a lazy gaze. Little did I know what that afternoon held for me. The usual giant squirrels, grey hornbills and green pigeons were absent. Instead, there were White cheeked barbets not one or two but numerous. They devoured fresh leaves and the figs enthusiastically. The Malabar barbets joined them and soon there were bubbles of green and orange across branches. Common flameback woodpeckers sputtered about and the Malabar grey hornbills could be seen on a tall canopy behind the fig tree. There was a brief flash of a Cinnamon ribbon that instantly captured my attention. There it was...an adult Indian Paradise Flycatcher in brown morph! I just couldn't believe my eyes! What appeared next literally swept me off my feet that I just sprung up to let it sink in. Yes, a Malabar Trogon again! Albeit for a fleeting few seconds, only to be chased away by an over-anxious Racket tailed drongo, it did perch on a distant canopy that was clearly visible from where I was slouching. The best moments in life and birding happen when we least expect.
Kali also returned from the hide-birding happy. Today's hide had only bird baths, no feed. So, a variety of solitary, lesser dominant species also visited the baths. He could click a Malabar whistling thrush, Asian fairy blue bird, flame-throated, yellow-browed bulbuls and even a Lesser yellow nape woodpecker.
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| Asian fairy blue bird enjoying a natural snack PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| The songster in full show Malabar whistling thrush PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| The singer snacks Malabar whistling thrush PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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An Orange headed thrush joining the snack and shower party PC: Kalirajan Subramanian
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| Shower time! PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| A yellow browed bulbul eager to cool off PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| But decides to go for a little treat first PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Amidst light drizzle we started our night birding. With caps on, covering the gear with a cloth we would have cautiously stepped a few meters ahead when the drizzle stopped. The night stroll also held surprises for us. A civet cat and a mouse deer briefly revealed themselves. Jerdon's nightjar could also be seen again. Combing a little further, Anoop suggested we go in search of the Indian and Oriental scops owl. Once we reached the spot, he took his time to carefully scan the place up and down, keenly listening to every sound out there. The night was dark and silent with intermittent lighting by the fireflies. We waited patiently. It's remarkable how our temperaments change with ambience. In the routine chase of life, we seldom wait just a few seconds longer in a queue, or let a content load, the other person finish what they started. But in natural settings, cortisol levels are well taken care of by the forces that there's always an undercurrent of Peace.
After what could be termed a noticeable-while, Anoop signaled us to get close to where he was standing. Once we reached, he pointed us to a tree branch right ahead of us in the line of sight (rather line of darkness). Such a tiny being that was the source of the single hoots we'd been hearing all this while - the Indian Scops Owl was in front of us. Much smaller in size than any owl that we'd seen so far, it seemed as if in dilemma whether to stay put or move.
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| Indian Scops Owl PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Subsequently on the opposite side, an Oriental Scops Owl revealed itself with its hoot. This one was comparatively larger than its Indian cousin but with classic scops features.
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| Oriental scops owl - those eyes! PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
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| Oriental scops owl - eyes shut PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
After an eventful day, we bid adieu to Anoop and returned to our stay.
Day4: Perumbavoor, Kalady and Namma Bengaluru
We informed Mr.Vinod the previous night that we'd be checking out early in the morning by 5am. Bidding him farewell for offering us a great experience throughout the stay, we rested well and began our return journey at 5am from Thattekad. At 6am we reached the Dharmasastha temple at Perumbavoor, a well-known Swami Ayyappan Temple. The temple premises was serene and divine with the first puja of the day getting started.
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| Perumbavoor Sri Dharma Sastha Temple PC: Internet |
After a heartfelt time there, our next stop was at Kalady. Kalady is the birthplace of the great monk Sri Adi Shankarar, the saint of all saints, who scaled the lengths and breadths of the subcontinent spreading the divine intent on Advaita philosophy. We visited the Sri Adi Shankara Bhagavad Padha Keerthi Sthamba Mandapam around 7am. The premise had an instantly calming effect. We went around the campus and sat for a while in silence.
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| PC: Kalirajan Subramanian |
Come to the woods, for here is rest. There is no repose like that of the green deep woods. Here grow the wallflower and the violet. The squirrel will come and sit upon your knee, the logcock will wake you in the morning. Sleep in forgetfulness of all ill. Of all the upness accessible to mortals, there is no upness comparable to the mountains.
- John Muir
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